Built to be installed
like it's permanent.

Stable surfaces: Can be installed on any solid base.

Wood, metal, or insulation: Must be covered with a metal mesh (5–10 cm grid), overlapped by 5 cm, and secured with screws or nails every 15–20 cm.

Waterproofing: Apply a protective coating (PVC varnish) on wooden bases before the mesh.

Base coat: For mesh surfaces, apply a thin cement layer and let dry for 24–48 hours. Concrete and brick walls only need cleaning and light moistening.

Marking: Use a level and chalk line to draw horizontal guide lines.

Blending: Open several boxes at once and pre-arrange 2–5 m² on the ground to mix colour shades naturally.

Cleaning: Wire-brush the back of the tiles to remove dust. Ensure they are clean but not soaking wet.

Adhesive: Use cement-based tile adhesive (for stone/concrete) or gypsum adhesive (for gypsum products).

Consistency: The mortar should be thick enough not to slide off a vertical trowel.

Technique: Press the element firmly and wiggle it slightly to distribute the glue.

Pressure: Apply enough pressure so the adhesive spreads to the edges. For large pieces, apply glue to the edges only to create a “vacuum effect.”

Thickness: Aim for a 5–10 mm adhesive layer.

Exterior walls: Joints must be fully sealed to prevent water damage.

Jointing: Use a grout bag or spatula. For a “dry-stack” look, let the squeezed-out mortar dry for 12–18 hours before cleaning with a wooden stick.

Brick cladding: Often requires no extra grout if the adhesive fills the gaps during pressing.

Sealing: You may apply a water-based stone sealer 2–3 days after installation once completely dry.